OFTEN overlooked by tourists hurtling towards the coastal honeypots and the mountains, the borderlands retain a peaceful charm that is sometimes difficult to find further west. Next time you drive down the A55 expressway, take a look around you at the gentle beauty of the scenery that surrounds the quietly attractive settlements fringing the road as you head west from Chester. It might tempt you to stop. It would be a shame not to discover the countryside and varied attractions of this area - towns and villages like Hawarden, Northop, Holywell, St Asaph are right next to the expressway and are well worth a visit. One borderlands town that is never short of visitors is Llangollen. This delightful little town clusters round the banks of the River Dee and bustles with activity in every month of the year. It is certainly the most well-known destination in the borderlands.
 It is especially busy in July, when the International Eisteddfod attracts visitors from all over the world. Plas Newydd, on the edge of Llangollen, is a wonderful half-timbered mansion that is hundreds of years old. Two centuries ago, it was the home of the infamous 'Ladies of Llangollen', two eccentrics who shunned the world and escaped here. A little further into the hills is the Ceiriog Valley, one of the most beautiful parts of Wales - and certainly among the quietest. The deserted Berwyn mountains fringe the valley, providing lonely hillwalks suitable for those really wanting to escape the crowds. At the head of the valley is Pistyll Rhaedr, the highest waterfall in Wales. Further north lie the Clwydian hills, which form a spine along the border between the newly created counties (unitary authorities) of Flintshire and Denbighshire. This exquisite group of hills has traditionally been completely ignored by most outdoor enthusiasts and other tourists. People driving to North Wales zoom past on their way to Snowdonia, without a thought for these purple and green heights. This is an unforgiveable oversight! The Clwydians offer gentle hillwalks with wonderful views down to the patchwork Vale of Clwyd. Further west, the dark peaks of Snowdonia rise above the Denbigh Moors. To the east, the Dee Estuary and Liverpool can be clearly seen. On a good day, even Blackpool Tower and the Lake District are visible.
 The villages dotted around the base of the Clwydian hills, and the tranquil Vale of Clwyd itself, are very attractive. Many have old and picturesque pubs - perfect for an evening meal after a hard day's exploration. Ruthin, in particular, is a medieval market town of great charm. St Asaph, with the smallest cathedral in the British Isles, is a delightful little place with an old parish church and some nice little pubs. Often called the Lourdes of Wales, the market town of Holywell has a tradition of pilgrimage going back centuries. St Winifreds Well (which gives the town its name) was founded, according to gory legend, when a local chieftain cut off the head of the lovely Winefride when she spurned his advances. A spring rose from the ground where her head fell, which subsequently became renowned for its healing properties. You are very unlikely to see any beheadings in modern Holywell. It is a much more peaceful place these days, and also boasts the Greenfield Valley Heritage Park, an award winning open-air industrial history museum. Towards the coast, Flint Castle is a fine example of Edward I's colonial building scheme. Although not as famous as the better preserved castles of Rhuddlan, Conwy and Caernarfon, Flint is much quieter and - in its way - just as impressive. Which brings us to another big attraction of the area - its dramatic history. So peaceful nowadays, it's hard to imagine the area as an ancient turbulent battleground between the Welsh and the English. The great earthwork boundaries of Offa's Dyke and Wat's Dyke are testament to the old battles that occurred here. But, all such memories are buried deep in the past. Modern pursuits in the Borderlands are more peaceful - take birdwatching, for example. The coast around here, although not classically beautiful, is of international importance for wading birds. The mudflats act as a kind of giant takeaway for all manner of species. Thousands of birds stop to refuel on their migrations each spring and autumn, and many stay for the winter. The sight of thousands of knot spinning through the air in the half light of a winter dusk, or flocks of oystercatcher exploding in panic as a hunting peregrine falcon plunges into them, will live long in the memory. Finally, it would be churlish of us to mention the borderlands without giving a few words to Chester. This beautiful Roman city is just over the border - in fact some of its western suburbs are in Wales. Whether you choose to wander round the unique medieval rows, visit the zoo, the cathedral or the Roman walls, an enjoyable day will be had. | 
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