THE GWYNEDD Coast stands apart from the rest of Wales. Way out on the western fringe of the country, the area is a bastion of Welsh culture and a beautiful wild landscape of ancient woodland, bleak hills and narrow lanes. The Llyn peninsula, in particular, characterises this part of Wales. A slender finger of hilly land stretching far out into the Irish Sea, it has long been a place of mystery and intrigue. Off the tip of the peninsula lies magical Bardsey Island, Ynys Enlli in Welsh. The treacherous Bardsey Sound makes just getting to the island a fraught affair. Once there, you are effectively cut off from the world - although you can see the coastline at Cilan Head across the sound.
 On summer nights, the weird screechings of thousands of manx shearwaters fill the air and the island forms a convenient natural hotel for thousands of migratory birds. It is a peaceful place, far removed from the pressures of modern life. Back on the mainland, the coastal scenery around Cilan Head, Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth) and Nant Gwrtheyrn - home of the Welsh language centre - is spectacular. Tremendous walks can be made around the main sights.
 But it is not all wild. A mile away from Criccieth is Llanystumdwy, former home of David Lloyd George, and a museum details the life and times of this most famous of Welsh politicians. Just a few miles further on is an even more tranquil spot - the Italianate village of Portmeirion, arguably the Gwynedd Coast's most famous attraction. Designed by renowned Welsh architect Clough Williams-Ellis, Portmeirion was the setting for the 60s TV series 'The Prisoner' and fits perfectly into its beautiful natural setting on the banks of the Dwyfor Estuary overlooking the Rhinog mountains. Williams-Ellis built the village between 1925 and 1975. He wanted to show that 'the development of a naturally beautiful site need not lead to its defilement'. Any visitor to Portmeirion will agree that he demonstrates this admirably. It blends perfectly with its surroundings. Abersoch, Harlech, Barmouth and Aberdyfi are all delightful coastal towns. Harlech has its magnificent castle, while the others are sleepy seaside towns with an unspoilt and old-fashioned air. Porth Dinllaen is a beautiful beach near Nefyn, which is only peaceful because of a single historical quirk. In the nineteenth century it went head-to-head with Holyhead for the honour of hosting the Irish ferry service. It lost. The loss was bad for local employment prospects, but excellent for the local landscape. The area remains marginal, though, out on the western fringe, many miles from major population centres. As a result, tourism is very important. So next time you are in North Wales, use the new road links to explore that little bit further to the beautiful Gwynedd coast. | 
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