The first time you see a giraffe in the wild it’s breathtaking. Okay, you’ve seen them on TV, you’ve even seen them in the zoo, but here they are chewing on a tree, doing their own thing. You’re the one that’s out of place in this situation. And of course they’re beautiful creatures – the big eyes, the long eyelashes, the longer legs, the longest neck. The toffee and custard yellow patterning, their graceful, almost slow motion way of running, which we got to see on our second full-day safari, when the naughtier of the two guides drove a little closer to the animals than he should have. Before the trip we were told we might need motion sickness tablets. On our three-hour drive to the first camp we realised why – the bumps and potholes and lack of smooth roads anywhere in Kenya make driving there a very shaky experience. As we first headed into the bush we saw the dwellings of the Maasai people. Despite being the most well-known, the Maasai are actually only a minor tribe in Kenya – there are many others much larger. But their distinctive dress and customs, and their close proximity to many of the big game parks, have made them the most familiar to tourists, and they are a strong presence during our trip. Gamewatchers Safaris, which runs the two camps we stayed at – one in Amboseli National Park and one in Maasai Mara National Park – hire Maasai as staff, and guests are greeted by a welcoming committee of warriors dressed in their colourful traditional garb: a bright red or purple shawl, and adorned with multi-coloured beaded necklaces. The camps themselves are simply set up – six tents, each with a double bed and a single, plus a bathroom at the back. There is a main tent where the guests dine together, plus a kitchen area behind where food is prepared by the Maasai. We find our bags in our tents – the accommodation might be simple and in the middle of nowhere but it still has a five-star sensibility. As do the tents themselves – they are huge. Each tent fitted the beds, bedside tables, a desk, chair, and wardrobe. There’s a bathroom at the back with sink and mirror, a flushing toilet and a shower. We were later told that, as water was scarce, we were only allowed six-minute showers, the hot water coming from what is basically a bucket outside, filled by the staff on request. We were introduced to Wilson, a Maasai warrior, and his friends, who also had Western names. We later discovered Wilson’s real name was Ole Kasaine, but, like most of the Maasai who came into contact with us lazy Westerners, he had taken on a name we could get our tongues around. The warriors took us on a walk to their camp, showing us how to throw a spear on the way – not as easy as you might think. We were greeted at the Maasai settlement by a song from the women. The chief then guided us around the settlement, pointing out the set up – how the animals were kept in a pen in the middle of the camp, and surrounded by the huts. He showed us a backgammon-style game that they played to pass the time, and how they lit fire from cow dung and two bits of wood. We were shown inside one of the mud huts as well, and before we left the men put on a performance for us – a traditional Maasai dance where they would jump as high as they could from standing position (to show how agile and strong they were), coming down with a loud thump in rhythm to the song their friends were singing. Going on safari means ridiculously early mornings (up at six to leave at seven), and hours and hours in a bumpy jeep. But when you see amazing, beautiful creatures like lions, elephants and giraffes with your own eyes, it makes it all worthwhile. After seeing my first giraffe I never got bored of spotting them. The same cannot be said of zebras. Again, seeing the first few was a joy, but once you hear the strange barking noise they make you realise that they are actually just slightly more glamorous donkeys. We didn’t find many hippos, so when we did see them it was always exciting. Our lunch during our second long safari day was spent in their company – a herd of them lay in the river nearby, lazing in the sun. Looking out for bunches of jeeps parked up together was a good way of finding animals. This is how we got our best lion experience. In Maasai Mara we followed a mother lion for a while until we stumbled across her destination – a group of cubs sitting in the shade of a bush, waiting for her to return. They were surrounded by three or four jeeps, and seemingly unperturbed by the human presence. They frolicked and dozed and we watched them a while until they suddenly became alert at a noise. Their mother was calling them. They went running towards her, one of the cubs being particularly playful and wrapping his front legs around her neck. The animals were plentiful – from some sleeping cheetahs hidden in a bush, the comedy warthog and its apparent three-second memory (Why am I running again? Oh yeah), and the massive grasshopper that jumped in the jeep and scared the living daylights out of me. But none were more majestic and awe-inspiring than the elephants. They were a welcome sight on the morning of our safari in Maasai Mara., which had started with two hours of seeing nothing at all (this can happen sometimes, the plains are unimaginably huge and the animals don’t work to any timetable). Our elephant experience only got better, however, when we found two males on heat having a violent fight. As we drove up they were in the middle of clashing, before they spent a long time circling each other. It was awesome to watch, nature at its most fierce and unforgiving. So of ‘The Big Five’ we saw three – buffalo, lion and elephant – the rare rhino and the leopard evading our company for so long that we were heading off to relax on the Kenyan coast before we got to see them. We’d seen enough, though, to fill our heads with some scarcely believable memories, and our cameras with some incredible photos. We also managed to see one animal which very few do - a venomous black mamba snake taking an early morning slither before it noticed us and retreated hastily into a bush. It wasn’t the first time I was glad I was in the jeep and not out there walking around. TRAVEL FACTS Wil Marlow travelled to Kenya as a guest of Africa Sky, which offers six night breaks from £1,518, including return flights from Heathrow, Birmingham or Manchester (via Amsterdam) to Nairobi, two nights at Amboseli Porini Camp, two nights at Mara Porini Camp, two nights at Pinewood Village, all on half-board basis, as well as internal transfers and surcharges. Safari is offered on full-board basis and includes drinks, escorted game drives, night drives, walks with Maasai warriors and all park and conservancy fees. Africa Sky reservations: 0870 904 0925 and www.africasky.co.uk | 
