 MICHAEL Winner described the restaurant at The Chester Crabwall Manor Hotel as 'dreadful', the service as 'sloppy' and a particular dessert as tasting 'as if it had come from a newsagent's fridge'. All of which doesn't alter the fact that the AA has awarded the Conservatory Restaurant two rosettes for its cuisine. So, does it say more about the reviewer - pampered film director of Death Wish fame, spoilt bachelor, too much money? But I love the fact that Michael Winner is not intimidated by plush establishments the world over. I also love the fact he refuses to wear a tie. But my husband, P, isn't quite so brave. He wore a blue silk tie with dark blue spots. I thought he looked rather attractive. I hope he thought I did. I changed my earrings three times and eventually decided to wear a cream suit from Coast. These are important considerations when visiting an establishment that the AA has named one of the top 200 hotels in Britain. But we needn't have worried. As soon as I heard the word 'Weatherseal' spoken at the bar, I knew we were safe sartorially. 'Is it a double glazing conference?' I asked Darren, our waiter. 'Yes,' he said, after some hesitation. He might even have blushed. But I'm no snob. What is important, though, is the ambience in a restaurant. Sitting in the lounge area, sipping a glass of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc (£18.50 a bottle) and eating complimentary canapés from a silver salver is wonderful stuff, I even felt my eyelashes fluttering in a romantic manner. But then 'double glazing' Pete and Dave strolled past with their pints, dressed in rugby shirts and jeans. Oh all right, I am a snob - sometimes. If price alone was the sign of a good restaurant, then Crabwall would take some beating. Three courses plus coffee and petit fours was a hefty £35 per person - and that was the set menu. The à la carte is around £30 for a main course alone. The Menu du Marché consisted of four choices for starter, four for main and a separate vegetarian menu if required. | 
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