 The Goshawk in Mouldsworth has one of the prettiest settings of any pub I know. Even the most jaded of lounge lizards would be impressed by the sweeping vista at the rear of the car park, the horses grazing in the adjacent field and that quintessentially English phenomenon - a bowling green. To make the most of the views, The Goshawk has a stylish wooden verandah overlooking the green, which tonight unfortunately, is bare of bowlers. 'Can we sit outside?' asks our nine-year-old. This is a regular request, no matter what the weather, so he's not surprised when husband, P and I say 'No' simultaneously. It's eight o'clock and the restaurant is buzzing - a bit like the manager who shows us to our table. 'This is what you call efficiency personified,' I say, as menus are put in front of us, bread placed on the table, wine glasses brought and drink orders taken. My family and I discovered The Goshawk after many a muddy walk in nearby Delamere Forest. Just a few years ago, this was a swirly carpeted, sombrely decorated establishment that I can honestly say is the only pub from which I have ever been asked to leave. We'd all been for a winter walk; two families, both with children, when an argument sprang up over a snooker cue. The perpetrators were six and eight years old respectively, but of course it was the parents who took the rap. Well, there's been a lot of water under the bridge since then, a change of management (The Goshawk) and a change in hair colour (me), so I doubt anyone will bring up that little incident again. And the decor has improved no end. Striking red walls, stripped pine floors, an eclectic mix of tables and chairs and the largest number of pictures crammed on the walls of any room I've ever been in. Unusually for us, we all made pretty speedy choices. The children both chose fanned melon with pear to start (£3.95), P chose Cajun spiced crayfish quiche (£5.50) and I went for the red pepper risotto balls stuffed with Mozzarella (£5.25). Mine was a rash decision I lived to regret. The balls were tasty but too filling. They would have been more suitable following one of our muddy walks in Delamere, not a summer's evening stroll from the car park. I shouldn't have eaten a whole one, never mind two. P's crayfish quiche was less stodgy but with a knock-out flavour. At least he welcomed the arrival of his main course, I could quite happily have left it a while longer - a couple of days perhaps? | 
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