 IN these days of multi-site food franchises it's still possible to find little hidden restaurant gems and the Pistyll Farmhouse Restaurant is a small but gleaming diamond in the North Wales culinary crown. On the edge of Nercwys, a small village on the outskirts of Mold, the restaurant has a growing reputation among Flintshire folk for its hospitality, relaxed atmosphere, good food and fine wine. Finding the restaurant isn't easy though, from the road the roof is barely visible and only a sign at the entrance to what is little more than a dirt track gives its presence away. The end of the track ends with a large cobbled courtyard with the restaurant building, its adjacent guest house and a duck pond arranged in a rectangle around the courtyard perimeter. A pair of geese raucously heralded our arrival on what was a horrible stormy night but the subtle lighting spilling from the windows was welcoming as we made a dash for the door. The restaurant and guest house is the business of Ken Hedges and Clive Youd, and on entering the small bar area Clive, a white starched apron wrapped around his waist, was dashing to take our coats while a young waitress guided us into a lounge. The waitress disappeared as we flopped into comfy armchairs and admired the room, which really does leave you feeling you're sitting more in a farmer's lounge than a restaurant. For me though, it's a pity the illusion is a little spoilt by posters pinned to the walls, adjacent to framed views of North Wales, advertising various Australian wines. Still, the waitress soon returned with the menus and a small silver hand tray of hors d'oeuvres, impressively, all of which were home-made and suitable for vegetarians. It worth noting that smoking isn't permitted in either the lounge or restaurant, and the absence of ash trays is a refreshing change. After ordering pre-dinner drinks I examined the menu and was initially a little taken aback at how limited it was. Starters weren't a problem, there were nine to choose from ranging from the staple menu inclusions of pate and soup - both home-made, and pan-fried mushrooms with garlic mayonnaise to vegetarian spring rolls and the more adventurous greenlip mussels in a cheese and garlic sauce topped with North Atlantic prawns. But the main courses on offer included only three meat dishes, duck in a home made black plum and kirsch sauce, 12 oz gammon with tomato, egg, pineapple, mushrooms and onion rings and lamb, in a home made garden mint and onion gravy. There was a decent selection of fish dishes, a main course of greenlip mussels, two Scottish salmon dishes, tuna and a swordfish dish along with two vegetarian choices of leek and mushroom crumble and a broccoli and creamy cheese bake. As duck is a particular favourite of mine I was happy enough, but I would like to have seen a white meat alternative. And as a committed carnivore, it's always reassuring to see a selection of steaks on any menu as a safeguard in case nothing else stands out. | 
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