 SOME things never change, even after 21 years of marriage. I like soul music, he likes R 'n' B; I like sitting in the sun, he likes sightseeing; I like ballet, he likes football. Given so many differences, is it any wonder I had difficulty choosing a restaurant for our wedding anniversary? In the end, I went straight to the top and booked a table at The Arkle in the Chester Grosvenor, not just because it has a reputation in the area to surpass all others, but because my husband loves racing - horse racing that is. Most people know that The Arkle was named for the steeplechaser owned by Anne, Duchess of Westminster, but I didn't know that it won the Cheltenham Gold Cup three times in a row. According to my husband, Arkle still remains the benchmark for all chasers. Not wishing to sound crass, I wondered if the same was true of the restaurant? This is an establishment used to being furlongs ahead of the rest - after all it has held a Michelin star for the 15th year in succession. Well, the racing theme then went one step further and better. Does anyone remember the character of Stato from Baddiel and Skinner, he of the deadpan expression and encyclopedic knowledge of sport? Angus Loughran (Stato's real name) is now a racing pundit with The Daily Telegraph and the BBC. But I'd lay odds that his other job is sommelier at The Arkle. So, Garry Clark, I apologise if I was over eager, but I was fascinated by the likeness and by your knowledge of wine. He lit a candle under our bottle of Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon when decanting it so he could 'see the sediment gathering in the neck' , and told us that Chile is an underrated and good value wine country. 'Good value' is not a phrase I thought I'd use of The Arkle and with a final bill nudging £150 I'm almost ashamed to mention it without sounding like Marie Antoinette. But if you jump one or two hurdles first, it's a description that I think is justified. For a start, don't let the rich decor of the bar area fool you into thinking you're in an episode of Sex in the City, or you might find yourself ordering a Kir Royale at £10.50 a glass. And don't, whatever you do, let Garry Clark's charm and star quality persuade you to order a second bottle of wine. Because even without these indulgences you still get a choice of eight exquisite starters, eight main courses and seven puddings all served in a comforting womb of a room, surrounded by the most charming staff I've ever been served by - all for £55 per person. | 
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