NOW I admit geography has never been my best subject - flags of the world questions in pub quizzes have always defeated me. But even I know that our currently chilly county of Cheshire isn't on the Mediterranean. Nor for that matter is Leicestershire.
 Nevertheless, ingredients from both English counties feature on the menu of Chester's 'Mediterranean Restaurant', Ego, as do dishes from other distinctly non-Med places like Brittany and New York. Greek salad sits alongside Caesar salad, Italian bruschetta is served not with Italian cheeses but with Stilton, and risotto with homely smoked haddock rather than the red snapper or swordfish you might have expected. Personally I found this disappointing. I note, however, that Ego's goal is to bring a 'holiday feel' to its diners, and it is fair to say that other menu staples such as sticky toffee pudding, banoffee pie or a steak sandwich are just as likely to be found in Ibiza or Myknonos as they are in other town centre restaurants in England and Wales. A genuine 'holiday feel' is created by the friendly and attentive staff, however. Ego's cheerful and welcoming atmosphere soon soothed my churlishness over the menu. Noting the small size of the bistro-style tables, I asked whether myself and my colleague, Steve, might avail ourselves of a bigger space for our 'brainstorming session' (an excuse for me to scribble notes for this review!) and the staff instantly understood the request and provided us with a table for four. This was during a fairly busy lunchtime, so this is a big plus for businesspeople wishing to entertain a client. Ego Chester has certainly got its geography right as far as its own location is concerned - Grosvenor Street, right bang in the city centre. And when all is said and done, I'd rather chefs knew their way round a kitchen better than their way round an atlas, and on the whole Ego's food is fresh, tasty, very well presented and served in 'just right' portions. I started with a fig and buffalo mozzarella salad. The fresh, cool cheese contrasted well with the piquant, almost bitter fig which had been halved and char grilled. On a bed of leaves and accompanied by small vine tomatoes, the whole was served with an intriguingly flavoured hazelnut and coriander dressing. Steve chose a selection of olives, aioli mayonnaise, salsa and hummus served with triangles of warm pitta bread - the sort of starter you can enjoy picking over while chatting. A real splash of colour, this was arguably the most truly Mediterranean of the meals we sampled. | 
Article
