 IT'S ALL too easy to be impressed by any Chinese food that doesn't come in an aluminium trays with half rice, half chips and is ordered by name rather than number. That said, satisfied diners may find it hard to put a cap on the superlatives when describing the culinary joys on offer at Shanghai Restaurant in Hoole Road, Chester. Billing itself as 'The Chinese Restaurant with a Difference' may seem a lofty claim, but the impossibly polite owners aren't that far off the mark. The relaxed atmosphere is perfectly enhanced with an elegantly designed interior, where East meets West in a contemporary twist on classic oriental. Not a whiff of a red paper lantern. Even the stylish black and white building that plays home to this oasis of calm along a hectic Hoole Road invites you to leave your worries at the door. The warm welcome from the Shanghai's cheery staff is followed by the chance to indulge in the small bar while you wait for your table. There's no wait for us when we arrive at 7pm to a very quiet restaurant but it steadily fills up and an air of mutual appreciation fills the room as we enthusiastically tuck into our three course banquet, at £24 per head. The layout, as well as the attentive service, allows you to feel like the only people there. The staff really have perfected the art of always being there without making you feel you've got an extra person in your party. Requests to substitute dishes on the set menu for something spicier are met with enthusiastic recommendations from our young waiter who suggests a Kung Po king prawn with cashew nuts and chilli, that while tasty, isn't likely to go down in history as the hottest thing ever to pass our lips. The first course of starters, including spare ribs, sesame prawn toast and chicken satay skewers may not be breaking any new ground but what they do achieve is to show you how they were supposed to be tasting all along. From the out-set the lack of glutinous, greasy sauces is a welcome change from the normal Chinese fare and by the time the generous portion of crispy duck pancakes arrives you are getting pleasantly full rather than suffering that post-Christmas dinner feeling. The Shanghai is known locally for its excelling at seafood dishes and the mixed seafood platter starter, at £8.50 per person, offers the more adventurous diner steamed scallop, salt and pepper squid and fried mussels with szechuan sauce. Further appetiser choices of steamed scallops in shell with garlic soy sauce (£6.80), mashed prawn stuffed in Chinese croissant with mayonnaise sauce (£4.80) ensure a wide choice for fish lovers and those looking to try something slightly to the left of prawn crackers. For those people who consider ordering from a set menu the equivalent of serving re-heated McDonald's to Gordon Ramsey, the menu does offer an extensive 'chef's recommendations' section, with favourites including fillet of Dover sole in sea spice sauce (£11.50) and sizzling fillet steak in black pepper and red wine sauce (£13.80). | 
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