AFTER ringing Upstairs At The Grill to book a table I felt more like a secret agent than a journalist.
Confirming by telephone my booking at the Watergate Street steakhouse I was advised to gain entry by locating and ringing a secret buzzer.
Clearly this was an exclusive venue, an opinion confirmed during a visit to the restaurant's web-site, which declared it to be the 'epitome of sophistication'.
I feared pretentiousness, or worse still, delusions of grandeur?
My mission was to discover whether Upstairs At The Grill had the substance to go with its style.
Thankfully, any fears were unfounded; this is an excellent restaurant.
I arrived with my friend 20 minutes later than planned after a drink or two to put us in the mood. The restaurant is located near the junction of St Martins Way, tucked inconspicuously between the Post Office and Guildhall. There are no brash or tacky adornments to the brick exterior.
After my initial surprise at the existence of the secret buzzer, I was somewhat disappointed to find it was not needed.
Instead, the doors were flung open and a friendly hostess welcomed us. Hardly the height of espionage after all.
Leaving behind the sunshine of a warm summer's evening we entered a dark reception area before being led upstairs to the even darker bar area.
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