 AS the latest in a long line of Mediterranean chains in Chester - and the third on Pepper Street alone - the news that Piccolino was taking over the old Shere Khan premises seemed like a sadly missed opportunity to inject some culinary variety into the city. But if you're going to have lots of Italian chain restaurants you may as well have a few good ones, and I am happy to report that Piccolino is one of them. As I opened the doors, a culture shock-wave hit me smack in the face - with Italian-accented waiters shouting to each other over the noise of the open-fronted kitchen as they served steaming hot plates of pasta to diners of all ages, it could be a bustling ristorante in Rome. And this on a Monday night. If you were wondering what was going on behind the boarded-up windows when the builders moved in earlier this year, the 'big reveal' is a pleasant surprise. The non-committal decor of Shere Khan has been replaced with a modern look every bit as sharp and stylish as you would hope from an Italian restaurant. The traditional wooden floors and rich wood panelling on the walls (even in the toilet!) contrast with smart cherry-red leather seats and the sharp, straight rows of spotlights hanging from bars on the ceiling. Viewed through a large hatch, the stainless steel kitchen looks a little like a school canteen - but a cool, Jamie Oliver canteen, with glass bowls of bright red, yellow and green peppers lining the cupboards. There seemed to be a huge number of very organised staff which was astonishing rather than annoying, mainly because they all managed to move around our table without bumping into each other. In the first few minutes, one waitress met us at the desk and asked how many were in our party, then a waiter led us a matter of metres to our table where another waitress took our drinks order and brought us our wine, before a different waiter brought us a jug of water. 'This is service at its most attentive,' I thought, while my partner Jon retorted: 'They all want some of the tip.' How cynical. | 
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