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Surprise, surprise

The Stables

by Mike Brennan, Chester Chronicle

 

The sweeping drive which leads to Soughton Hall and the Stables restaurant

If it is true that first impressions are all-important, then The Stables promised to be a spectacular dining experience.

The restaurant, part of Soughton Hall and five minutes from the A55, boasts what must be one of the most impressive approaches in the country via a tree-lined avenue that suggests Versailles rather than Flintshire.

And I mean TREES! These monsters are huge survivors of the ancient wild wood, and it seemed somehow ignominious to make that journey in a car. It was a vista that demanded to be enjoyed in a clip-clopping open carriage. Truly impressive.

But could the Stables live up to this spectacular billing? The answer, thankfully, was yes...and there were even a couple of pleasant surprises in store.

Inside the bar, and again first impressions are good. Unsurprisingly, there is a horsey theme and wood and leather abound. I had sat at our rather odd-looking table for several minutes before I realised it was actually a huge bellows!

Friendly and definitely non-pushy staff showed us to our restaurant table and there was surprise number one - no wine list.

But who needs a wine list? The entire landing is lined with rack after rack of wines.

You actually enter the restaurant area, an attractive low key brick-walled room topped with wooden roof beams, via what I can only describe as a wine walk - an avenue almost as impressive as the driveway, but with plonk taking the place of trees.

Choosing becomes a touchy feely experience and we spent a happy 10 minutes in wine-lovers' heaven poking, prodding and reading labels before we made our choice.

The Stables prides itself on its South African selection but we chose a Chilean Merlot, Veramonte, at £14.95. In fact most wines seemed to be £14.95 but there were plenty of more expensive choices as well.

Beverley, Merlot lover that she is, was impressed with the rich texture.

'It tastes of chocolate,' she said. I already knew that - I had read the label. The menu had an interesting mix but was small enough to avoid confusion.

 
 

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