 CLOSE your eyes. Bear with me - this will take only a minute. Now, picture a potato. What image have you conjured up? Is it : a, A humble spud. Worthy and dirt-laden, hoisted from the good earth to be mashed, chipped, fried, boiled or baked for your delight. Or is it b, A potential masterpiece. A hidden work of art waiting to be freed from its starchy prison by a loving pair of creative hands. If the answer is B, you were probably in the Ruan Orchid on Friday night when a carved raw spud was the centrepiece of our table decoration made from veg sculptures. Talk about tasteful decor! Where other restaurants have sous chefs and pastry chefs, does the Ruan Orchid have a sculpture chef ? Picture the kitchen: 'Swede rearing horse for Table Eight.' 'Potato rose needed for Table 10.' 'Carrot swimming fish-type thingy for Table Six.' The Ruan Orchid was the first venue to bring the delights of Thai cuisine to the Chester palate, but it has been some years since our last visit. How is it faring now? Beverley and I decided to invite along old friends and eating companions Dave and Angela to find out. Dave and I ordered a Singha lager to prepare the taste buds. At £2.95 a bottle, I thought it was a little expensive, but no more so, apparently, than in Chester's trendy bars. But what wine to order with Thai food? As usual I left the big decisions to Beverley and, as usual, she went for the Pinot Grigio (£13.95 a bottle). | 
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